Get some coffee. This is gonna take a minute. [quote]Now, I don’t want a new car, I want a used one that I can just drop a couple thousand on and be done with it.[/quote] [quote]I will be using this car as little as is physically possible, I’d estimate only once, maybe twice a week,[/quote] I take it tat you're not into driving a manual, so make sure the cars you look for have an automatic transmission. I'd recommend cars made prior to 2011-12. After that they all seem to get more and more gimmicky and problematic. My son is a car tech, and even he prefers what he refers to as "dumb" cars (pre-fly by wire) from the era before all the electric steering and gas pedal additions were introduced. Being it needs to be smaller, and won't be driven much the concern is going to be drive distance. Are you going short distances, or long (20 minutes or more)? The reason I ask is, if it is driven seldom, and short distances at a time, it doesn't give the charging system a lot of time to replenish the battery after cold starts. This will lead to shortened battery life, and unwanted dead car when you wouldn't be expecting it. In other words, if you're not driving far on your commutes, Make an effort to drive it longer distances at least once a week. It's better for the battery, as well as all the other running gear. A car that's not used, rots. Literally. I saw that you aren't really looking for suggestions about they brand or model itself, but I'll leave my recommendations regardless. Do with them as you wish. First and foremost, I'll tell you NOT to buy a Miata or any sports car. It doesn't appear that you have a sports car weakness, but they inevitably will cost you more to start with, as well as in insurance and plates. Especially if you're under 25 years old. Being a Ford guy, I'm gonna say a Focus or Fiesta, 2011 or older. I have a 2013, and though it's been effectively trouble free for me for near 9 years, but I know that the '12-end of the production run (US) have a dual clutch transaxle that can be problematic. Otherwise, great car. My oldest son has one just about like it (different package), and his has had a little issue with the transaxle, but not anything that keeps it off the road. I'll go as far as suggesting any old Taurus as well. Depending on your regional location. If live in the north, the body will be rusty around the rocker panels and rear wheel wells, but the drivetrain is dang near bulletproof. Now I don't like stating the following, but it's truth enough that you need to know and make your own decisions. A Toyota Camry, Corolla, or Honda Civic are probably going to be your best bets to find. These cars have really good histories, and will go for a couple hundred thousand miles if you keep up on the basic maintenance. So will the 2 Fords I mentioned. You couldn't make me take a Chevy, Dodge, or any hybrid compact car. Everything that follow is for your everyday ICE car. I don't/won't do hybrids, or EVs. That's a whole different topic. What you need to look for: This is the hardest part, because it's basically everything, and if you're not knowledgeable about cars, you can get taken pretty easily. Let me start with, NEVER buy from any online company like Carvana, and a lot of "Buy Here - Pay Here" places. All they do is move cars. There's no accountability post sale. Private sellers lie, or intentionally leave out issues they are aware of. New / Used Car Dealers stretch the truth, but any reputable ones will stand behind what they sell, and will most likely be your best bet. ALWAYS see, look over, drive (city and highway) the cars you look at, and if you are able, take them to a trusted mechanic that can look it over and scan for trouble codes. Upon first seeing any car you are going to looking at; [u]Primary things[/u] -Ask if it is a "Salvage " Title This means the car was wrecked and rebuilt. Best to avoid unless you are able to make your own repairs. -Ask if it still has the airbags. If there are none, it's been wrecked, and not replaced because they are expensive. -Ask for a CarFax if it's from a dealership. This will give you all the known history of the car that has been reported (accidents, major repairs). [u]Body Inspection[/u] -Look closely at the body. If there is a seam (any gap between body panels like the hood and fenders, doors,...) to see if they are all even. If they're not, the car has probably been in a wreck and repaired/rebuilt. -Check the paint for any missing, or faded (sun bleached), or any clear coat flaking off. This may still be under warranty to have repaired. On Toyota Corollas, I know they had an ongoing issue with white cars they had to repaint. -Make sure all the glass is undamaged. -Check the tires for the amount of tread left. You can either look for the tread wear indicators (the little raised bumps between some of the tread patterns - If they're even with the tread, the tires need replaced) or use a penny to see if they still have enough. Turn Abe upside down, put that edge of the coin down between the treads, and as long as the top of his head is not exposed, they have enough. Also see if the tread is still visible across the entire top of the tire (side to side). If the tread is thicker on one side, or thinner on the other or even in the middle, the alignment is "off" and in need of realignment. This can also be sometimes apparent by seeing that all the tires are standing visibly vertical. If the top or bottom of the tire is noticeably protruding out of the wheel well more so that the other, it's out of line. -Look at the exhaust tip(s). If they're covered in black soot, there may be an engine issue. Either that or it was driven hard. -Push down on the body on all 4 corners. If the body bounces around or if there are any audible squeaks or hydraulic sounds, the shocks are worn out. If it comes directly back up into position, and stays there, you're good. -Check to see that all the exterior lights work. -Look underneath the body. If anything looks loose, hanging, or in the case of the exhaust - full of rust holes, or the catalytic converters (cats) have been removed. If the cats are gone, it's likely not running like it should, and would be evidence of the tailpipe soot I mentioned a little bit ago. -While looking underneath, if you can see any of the shocks, look to see if they are seeping any oil. If so, the seals are going or gone, and the shock will eventually fail. -See if there are any oil, anti freeze/coolant, transmission or power steering fluid puddles under the car on the ground. [u]Interior Inspection[/u] -Things get stained and torn over time. It's inevitable, unless you're a clean freak, like me. -Make the steering wheel straight when driving. If it's not, it's out of alignment, or have been wrecked. -See if the airbags (center of the steering wheel, and passenger side dash) are intact. If the plastic covers are torn or glued, they're not. -Check that all the gauges, all exterior and interior lights, turn signals, hazard flashers, rear window defroster (if equipped), and radio are all properly functioning. And the killer - [u]Engine Inspection[/u] Most people don't know what to do hear, let alone what they're looking at. This is why I mentioned taking any prospective vehicle to a mechanic you or your family trusts. They can do a quick inspection, and scan for codes, usually for a decent price. -Ask how old the battery is. Anything less than a couple years is ok, but a mechanic would be able to check the voltage to ensure it. -See if there are any oily spots anywhere on the engine. It should be clean and no residue or clinging oils anywhere. -See if there are any exposed wires (bare, no sheathing), broken wiring harnesses. -If the car starts easy, runs quietly and evenly (no clunks, knocks, rattles, hesitation when giving it more throttle). -While running, sitting in place, turn the steering wheel. If there is a groan or buzzing sound while turning, the power steering pump may be bad, have a leak, or just be low on fluid. -If on a test drive, listen and FEEL (with your posterior) for anything that doesn't seem right. Does the steering pull to one side (alignment, possibly tires). Does it shift precisely and without any noticeable, unusual noises. Does the car shake (steering wheel of just feel it) If you decide on a car, and any of the issues I listed are present, that's bargaining power for you. They either fix it before you agree to buy it, or they need to alter the asking price to accommodate the repairs you will have to be making later. DO NOT SIGN ANYTHING until YOU are thoroughly content with the purchase. Dealerships will play the "Let me ask my manager" game. It's all an unnecessary part of the show. They make it look like they're going to go to bat for you and get the best possible deal. They already know if there is anything wrong with it. The price is what they have on it, until you bring up anything you saw, found, or a mechanic told you of when they looked at it. Then use that as price reduction power, if you're good at keeping a straight face. They'll know if you don't know what you're talking about. Your next questions should be about car insurance, plates, and title, and in some cases out of state purchased vehicles sales tax (if you buy a car from another state). In that case, the sales tax is paid at the BMV, not where you bought it, sometimes. Some states you do, some you don't. You need to have insurance before you can transfer the car's title and get it plated. Remember these expenses when you are buying the car. These are all after the sale costs you will have to cover as well before you can legally drive it. Let your insurance agent know all the details of the car (year, make, model, VIN number) prior to buying it. They'll need to know this to set up your coverage, and make sure you're covered once you drive it off the lot.